(L to R) – Woodside Inn, Wild Food Festival 2023, amaranth chops and bamboo shoots
In an age where modern farming techniques have largely dictated food production, the importance of indigenous Indian ingredients is gaining renewed attention. These traditional foods offer valuable insight into sustainability, nutrition and cultural heritage. As attention shifts away from what we can adopt from other countries and back to the richness of agro-product initiatives such as Wild Food Festival by OOO Farms in collaboration with The locavore – an organization headed by Chef Thomas Zacharias to highlight the celebration of native ingredients – emphasize the need to reconnect with traditional practices to achieve a healthier planet and a more diverse food system.
The wild one Food FestivalAn annual event held in Mumbai, it is a showcase of India’s indigenous ingredients, organised in conjunction with tribal communities to give people a better understanding of the diversity of India’s local produce. This year it will be held on September 1, and as part of the preparations for the festival, restaurants across Mumbai have joined the movement and have been showcasing dishes and drinks inspired by lesser-known ingredients. Times Now caught up with the many people who have joined forces to make this happen and learnt more about what this unique cultural showcase aims to do.
The transition from tradition to modern agriculture
The modern agricultural paradigm has prioritised yield over nutrition, leading to significant environmental degradation. Shikha Kansagara of OOO Farms explains this shift by stating, “Agriculture, unfortunately, remains one of the top three polluters of air, water and soil. This has led to the deterioration of the quality of human and animal life on our planet.” Modern food systems, driven by industrial practices and genetically modified seeds, have put soil health and biodiversity at risk.
However, traditional farming practices are based on principles of sustainability and nutrition. Indigenous food systems focus on maintaining soil fertility and producing nutrient-rich foods without the need for synthetic chemicals. Kansagara notes, “Unfortunately, the focus has shifted from ‘nutrition’ to ‘yield.’ Indigenous food systems focus on abundance and nutrition, not yield, but they do provide necessary nutrition to the body.”
The value of native seeds
At OOO Farms, the emphasis is on preserving and promoting indigenous seeds. These seeds are not only more resilient, but also better adapted to local climatic conditions. By preserving these seeds through community seed banks, OOO Farms aims to ensure that traditional farming practices continue to thrive. Kansagara highlights the benefits of these seeds: “We have observed that external inputs of chemicals and fertilizers have almost always resulted in a poor quality harvest.”
Heirloom seeds have proven their resilience and adaptability over generations. They thrive without the need for chemical inputs, producing robust, nutrient-dense food. This approach aligns with OOO Farms’ philosophy of “growing nutrition per acre and not yield per acre,” which has been implemented in over 63 villages. By integrating these heirloom seeds into modern kitchens, they are bringing local, nutritious ingredients back to the table.
The approach of the Folk restaurant
Folk Restaurant, known for its regional dishes from across India, is an example of this integration. Its strategy for incorporating indigenous ingredients involves creating dishes that reflect regional culinary traditions and appeal to contemporary tastes. A Folk representative explains, “We understand the value that indigenous ingredients bring to represent the food of a place or a home and the memories associated with them for someone from that region or the experience it creates for a diner trying a dish for the first time.”
“We tried to create some kind of reference to the flavour and texture of the ingredient. It wasn’t easy because there was such a wide variety. But we tried to focus on what we do at Folk and create something in the same spirit.” For instance, Folk has incorporated ingredients like terda and kharsinga into its menu. Terda, with its resemblance to a chicken leg, was stir-fried with curry leaves and grated coconut. Kharsinga, which Shailesh of OOO Farms recommended be treated like karela (bitter gourd), was used in a dish similar to karela and aloo. Ambadi leaves, known for their sour nature, were added to dal, and a vegetable similar to kachi keri was treated with kokum and tamarind to make an achaar (pickle). These adaptations highlight how traditional ingredients can be creatively integrated into modern dishes while retaining their cultural essence.
Indian and Italian fusions from Toast Pasta Bar
Chef Devika Manjrekar of Toast Pasta Bar has also explored the potential of indigenous ingredients through her involvement with the Wild Food Festival. Her creations include Khurasni garlic bread and Bafli agnolotti. Khurasni garlic bread is topped with khurasni butter and lightly wilted khurasni leaves, which give it a floral, dill-like flavour. Bafli agnolotti, filled with bafli, homemade ricotta, pepper and lemon zest, are served with a lemon butter sauce and a crunchy bafli leaf garnish. Manjrekar describes bafli as “super spicy and lemony”, likening it to an Indian equivalent of Japanese shiso leaves.
Japanese Reinventions
Chef Lakhan Jethani of Mizu Izakaya has also embraced indigenous ingredients through his participation in the Wild Food Festival. Jethani’s innovative use of wild vegetables includes dishes such as Khurasni Agedashi Tofu and Fatangdi and Kharsingha Midori Roll. The Khurasni Agedashi Tofu features Khurasni leaves braised in Agedashi broth, accompanied by shimeji mushrooms, snow peas and water chestnuts, topped with Kashmiri Momiji oroshi chilli. The Fatangdi and Kharsingha Midori Roll features Kharsingha, which is brined and tempura-made, placed inside a vinegared rice roll and topped with blanched Fatangdi leaves and crispy Fatangdi chiffonade flavoured with Shio Kombu powder. This approach not only highlights the distinctive flavours of these wild vegetables, but also introduces them to a wider audience through a fusion of traditional Japanese food and ancient Indian flavours.
The role of events in promoting local ingredients
Events like the Wild Food Festival play a crucial role in raising awareness about indigenous ingredients and their cultural significance. The festival, organised by OOO Farms, was initially aimed at showcasing food harvested from the Western Ghats. Kansagara reflects on its evolution, saying, “The Wild Food Festival took the form of a DIALOGUE rather than just an exhibition.” This dialogue has grown to encompass discussions on food, culture, the climate crisis, farming practices and soil health.
The festival has become a platform for diverse stakeholders including scientists, chefs, students, policy makers and farmers to come together and explore the value of native seeds and tribal wisdom. Kansagara notes, “Since the last few years, the Wild Food Festival has seen policy makers, Members of the Legislative Assembly and Members of Parliament attend the event without personal invitations.”
This increased visibility has helped elevate the importance of indigenous ingredients and their role in sustainable food systems. By engaging a broad audience, the festival has fostered a greater appreciation of the cultural and nutritional value of traditional foods.
Cocktails Go Native at Woodside Inn
Woodside Inn’s food and beverage manager Aneesh Jog also highlights the importance of events like the Wild Food Festival. Jog says: “It was an exciting opportunity to dig deeper and work with ingredients we’ve never used before and showcase our culinary offering with a few tweaks.” The restaurant’s collaboration with the festival involved working with indigenous ingredients like mahua flowers, wild amaranth (kurdu) and bamboo in a selection of earthy and innovative cocktails like the Mahua Boulevardier with a hint of floral sweetness and appetizers like Indian spiny bamboo shoot cutlets that capture the earthy, spicy flavour of bamboo shoots.
One of the most surprising discoveries for Jog was the Indian bamboo shoot, which has a distinctive earthy aroma. The team had to find a way to accentuate the flavour and texture of their dishes. This process of exploration and adaptation reflects the broader trend of incorporating indigenous ingredients into modern cuisine, helping to preserve regional culinary traditions while also catering to contemporary tastes.
The future of indigenous ingredients in modern gastronomy
Integrating indigenous ingredients into modern gastronomy represents an important opportunity for sustainability and cultural preservation. By embracing these traditional foods, we can support local farmers, preserve biodiversity, and reconnect with our culinary heritage.
Subko, a company dedicated to highlighting the agricultural wealth of the Indian subcontinent, is a good example of this approach. Its collaboration with the Wild Food Festival aligns with its mission to showcase lesser-known wild vegetables and promote sustainable food practices. Subko’s focus on sourcing produce directly from farmers underscores the importance of supporting traditional farming methods and preserving indigenous ingredients.
Celebrating and integrating indigenous Indian ingredients offers a promising path towards a more sustainable and nutritious food system. By recognising the value of these traditional foods and incorporating them into modern cuisine, we honour both our culinary heritage and our commitment to environmental stewardship. Events such as the Wild Food Festival and the efforts of restaurants and chefs play a crucial role in bringing indigenous ingredients to the forefront, ensuring that these valuable traditions continue to enrich our diets and our lives.
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